---
title: "Care, storage and repair"
description: "How to properly care for fountain pens. Storage, cleaning, vintage care (hard rubber, celluloid)."
language: en
date_modified: 2026-05-19
date_published: 2026-05-19
license: CC BY 4.0
license_url: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
source_url: https://www.fountainpen.de/faq-chunks-en/09_pflege-und-lagerung.md
landing_url: https://www.fountainpen.de/faq-llm-en.htm
publisher: fountainpen.de
author: Michael Steiner
keywords: ['care', 'storage', 'cleaning', 'vintage', 'hard rubber', 'celluloid', 'repair']
entries: 124
---

# Care, storage and repair

> How to properly care for fountain pens. Storage, cleaning, vintage care (hard rubber, celluloid).

Knowledge base from the former fountainpen.de forum (anonymised, AI-curated). **124 entries** in this topic block. Full index: <https://www.fountainpen.de/faq-llm-en.htm>.

## Care & repair

### How can a Montblanc Boheme be cleaned thoroughly outside the boutique?

According to the service guide, water must enter the body of a Boheme neither from the front nor from the rear; only rinsing the nib is officially allowed. A thorough cleaning is however needed especially when black ink is used (which clogs quickly) or when the ink colour is to be changed. In boutiques Montblanc uses a special glass tube with a rubber bulb, fitted in place of the cartridge; this tool is not sold openly and is comparatively expensive at around 30 euros. A pragmatic solution is to open an old Montblanc cartridge at the rear with a knife (without shortening it too much), clean it, and attach a Montblanc piston converter; the new converters with a front thread sit particularly firmly. The empty cartridge is fitted into the Boheme, the converter attached, and the nib turned out, which retracts the converter together with it. By dipping the nib into water and operating the converter, water is drawn through the feed until the ink lightens visibly. Note that the cartridge must not be cut too short, otherwise the metal ring of the converter does not fit into the body; in an emergency a second empty cartridge can serve as an extension.

Related pages on fountainpen.de:
• Montblanc Bohème — model overview: https://www.fountainpen.de/boheme-en.htm

### How can a stuck piston mechanism caused by dried ink be loosened again?

When ink in a piston pen has dried out and the piston no longer moves, a simple water bath helps. Place the pen without cap with the nib pointing down into a glass and add lukewarm water (about 40 °C) so that the knob ends just under one centimetre above the water level. The pen should stand for at least three days, since the capillary forces of the feed slowly draw the water into the reservoir; turning the pen over once a day so the water also reaches the piston is sensible. This method works reliably but requires patience. A faster alternative is to unscrew the cone from the barrel with a special wrench and clean the barrel directly, which takes about an hour.

### How can cartridge pens like the Boheme be cleaned with severely dried ink?

When a cartridge pen has been left uncleaned for a long time, ink residues can dry and impede flow; a simple piston converter is then often not enough. A proven method uses a Pelikan large-capacity cartridge and a so-called ear syringe from a pharmacy, e.g. size M for around 3.45 euros. Cut the rear of the cartridge open and clean it, then attach the ear syringe to the cartridge and fit the assembly into the pen as a normal cartridge would. To clean, hold the nib in water and squeeze the rubber ball; this loosens even stuck ink residue from the feed. The method is not limited to Boheme or Montblanc but is suitable for any cartridge pen.

Related pages on fountainpen.de:
• Montblanc Bohème — model overview: https://www.fountainpen.de/boheme-en.htm

### Should fountain pens be filled with ink or water before long-term storage, or left empty?

The right answer depends mainly on the piston material. Pens with plastic pistons, typically models from the 1960s onwards, can be stored empty without problems after a thorough cleaning. With cork pistons one must distinguish whether the cork has been freshly renewed; a freshly fitted cork soaked in wax stays tight for years even without being filled with water. Older, already used cork should likewise be stored dry, since even distilled water can promote bacteria over time, which in extreme cases leads to mould on cork or celluloid. If the pen is to be used again later, it is enough to fill it with water a few days before use so the cork can swell again. Ink is regarded as the most harmful thing that can be put in a fountain pen; therefore it is advisable to fully disassemble pens before storage, fit a new cork seal or a new ink sac, soak the parts for at least a week in water, and use only distilled water for filling. To test nib operation it is enough to dip the nib briefly in ink; the feed will draw enough for a writing sample. Pens with polyethylene seals, used by Montblanc from the model 252 onward, i.e. from the 1960s, do not need any moisture for storage.

### How should fountain pens made of celluloid and hard rubber be stored correctly?

Older celluloid fountain pens should be filled with water roughly every three months during longer storage; some of the water visibly disappears, partly given off through condensation and partly absorbed by the celluloid, which prolongs the service life. Writing instruments made of celluloid and hard rubber must in general be protected from light, especially sunlight, since the material otherwise ages; celluloid was the first industrial plastic and tends to self-decompose, as is also known from old film reels. Hard rubber was historically only limitedly dyeable, which is why almost all pre-celluloid pens are black, while celluloid made strong, colourful tones possible. Pens of newer construction, particularly from around 1960 onward, can be stored empty but should first be flushed with water so that dried ink does not damage the piston seal lip in later use. Celluloid and hard-rubber pens must on no account be placed in an ultrasonic bath, as the colour can dissolve; polishes are also to be avoided because many products soften the surface. Hard rubber can be cared for by rubbing it with olive oil or gun oil such as Ballistol, which restores a darker surface. For material identification, celluloid is mostly very colourful and brightly dyed, while hard rubber shows muted tones such as black, dark red or rarely orange and can discolour to grey-brown or fawn under light influence; safe identification is only possible via a burn test, which, however, is not an option on a whole pen, since celluloid is extremely flammable.

### How can the Montblanc 147 Traveller be cleaned in practice?

Montblanc recommends cleaning fountain pens at least once a month with clear water; with black ink more often. Simply holding the 147 under water is, however, problematic because the inner metal parts can oxidise; only by long drying before renewed use can this danger be reduced, although ink residues can hardly be removed completely this way. An ultrasonic bath is another possibility, but rarely available in practice; in addition, a simple ink change is hardly possible with it. The most practical approach is to fit a standard Montblanc piston converter, which fits well and protrudes far enough out of the barrel to be operated comfortably; with it, cleaning the 147 becomes an easy routine.

Related pages on fountainpen.de:
• Montblanc Meisterstück 147 Traveller: https://www.fountainpen.de/c-montblanc-meisterstueck-147-en.htm

### How do you correctly maintain the metal mechanism of older fountain pens?

At least once a year the metal mechanism of older fountain pens should be treated with silicone spray to keep it operating smoothly. Mechanisms made of metal are mainly found in writing instruments up to the 1950s as well as in Skeleton Editions and pens of other makers such as the Doerrbecker Quintessenz. Current regular Montblanc writing instruments no longer have metal mechanisms and therefore do not need this kind of additional care.

### Why should old fountain pens only be filled with water-soluble ink?

Older writing instruments should be filled exclusively with water-soluble ink, because only this allows cleaning to be carried out simply and gently. Whether an ink is water-soluble is normally indicated on the packaging; alternatively it can simply be checked whether the ink can be erased with an ink eraser, which is taken as an indication of water-solubility. Typical examples of water-soluble inks are Pelikan 4001 royal blue and Lamy royal blue.

### What does the Montblanc leather care set offer, and what is it suitable for?

Montblanc offers its own leather care set specially attuned to the range. It is suitable for cleaning and care of all leather articles offered by Montblanc, including the sensitive ostrich-leather variant, and thus represents a manufacturer's own alternative to universal care products.

### How do you clean fountain pens that were filled with waterproof ink?

Fountain pens running waterproof ink should be cleaned every eight to fourteen days unless they are in daily use. If the ink has nevertheless dried, cleaning begins with a water bath of about six days, possibly with mild soap solution, in which the first ink pieces dissolve. Then the pen, or at least the nib unit, can be cleaned further in an ultrasonic bath; for cartridge pens, additionally tape-head spray from audio retailers, sprayed through the unit, helps to dissolve waterproof ink residues. Writing instruments of celluloid, ebonite or hard rubber must on no account go into ultrasonic, while materials from Pelikan and Montblanc are relatively insensitive there; gold plating already attacked on clip or nib can, however, dissolve further in the ultrasonic bath. Soiled gold nibs can also be cleaned with a damp silver-cleaning cloth, with the cloth being damp so it does not scratch. If nothing helps, the pen should be handed over to a repairer for disassembly.

### How do you correctly care for writing-instrument accessories made of ostrich or alligator leather?

Exotic leather types such as ostrich or alligator leather need special care. According to Montblanc, care wax is the only correct agent; moist or watery care solutions may rather damage the leather, since these leather types must have returned to them, by the wax, those natural oils and a high beeswax content that they lose over time. The wax should be applied very thinly and well massaged in, otherwise a whitish residue remains on the surface that, while not harmful, is unsightly. On crocodile leather such residues can, thanks to the smoother surface, be polished away again well with a microfibre cloth.

### Should you store a button-filler pen with or without an ink sac?

Storage with the ink sac fitted is unproblematic, provided the sac is not filled with ink; nothing is more unsuitable for old writing instruments than ink. After every writing test the pen should be flushed with water. However, plasticisers from the rubber tube can lead to discolouration, which is why those who play it safe completely remove the tube. The subsequent fitting of an ink sac is usually unproblematic; more important is that the nib clamp is in flawless condition, since strongly oxidised nib clamps can discolour the celluloid. When buying without a fitted ink sac, the grip section should not be re-glued to the barrel, so that the future fitting of a sac remains possible.

## Storage and care of writing instruments

### Which storage boxes or collector cases are suitable for several high-end writing instruments?

What matters is a padded, velvet-like lining of the slots so that lacquer and fittings do not get scratched; bare wooden slots without padding are unsuitable. Montblanc offers a leather collector's case for 10 writing instruments (item 35819, MSRP 320 euros), and Gutberlet has portfolios for up to 100 pieces. Italian makers such as Visconti, Montegrappa and OMAS used to offer wooden cases with glass lids, but these are now hard to find; offers from the United States are often poor in quality and unattractive due to shipping costs. For retrofitting home-built wooden cases, self-adhesive velvet film (e.g. d-c-fix) is mentioned, with the caveat that plasticisers in PVC films can damage writing instruments over time — it is worth asking the manufacturer about that.

### How can a newly bought Montblanc fountain pen (presumably a Noblesse) be identified, and what should one do if ink flow weakens with cartridges?

The pen described is not a Noblesse but a Montblanc SlimLine, which was produced in large numbers at the time; the collector's value is therefore low. If the nib is stamped "585", it is made of 14-karat gold; otherwise it is only gold-plated. The clip is generally only gold-plated. If ink flow drops with cartridge use, a thorough flushing of the pen with water normally helps. Professional repair is rarely worthwhile on these widespread models, since the cost typically exceeds the replacement value.

### How can a Montblanc Boheme with a retractable nib be cleaned properly, given that it only takes cartridges and no water should run through the body?

A standard piston converter does not fit the retractable-nib Boheme and is not a sensible cleaning option either — the only exception is the mid-size model with a fixed nib. A proven approach is to build a cleaning tool from a thoroughly cleaned original cartridge cut open at the rear, with a pipette or rubber bulb fitted air- and water-tight; this lets you flush water across the nib and feed without flooding the mechanism. Montblanc offers a glass tube with a rubber bulb for this purpose. It is important not to let water run directly through the body, as the mechanism can corrode in the early Boheme, Rouge & Noir and Noir & Noir models. For roughly the past one and a half years the mechanisms have been made of stainless material, and Montblanc will swap older mechanisms in service on request.

Related pages on fountainpen.de:
• Montblanc Bohème — model overview: https://www.fountainpen.de/boheme-en.htm

### How are piston-filler fountain pens built, and can a layperson repair them?

There is no universally valid description of the layout of piston-filler pens; mechanisms and threads vary considerably between manufacturers, and special tools such as pliers, pullers and wrenches are often needed for disassembly. On the Montblanc 31, the section can be unscrewed and replaced as a unit; the rear piston part can also be swapped out completely, which is normally safer than full disassembly. On older pre-war Montblanc models the feed and nib are friction-fit and can be carefully pulled out from the front; a replacement nib must match the feed in curvature, width and length. Tools are available, among others, from Tom Westerich (penboard.de); repair workshops at the Hamburg pen show and collector meet-ups offer a chance to learn from professionals. Beginners should first practise on cheap sacrificial pens.

### How can disturbing engravings or their gold inlay be removed from an old fountain pen (e.g. Montblanc 342)?

Mechanically polishing out the engraving is discouraged, since the early post-war plastic has already lost plasticisers and weakening of the wall can lead to body damage. An ultrasonic bath can dissolve the gold inlay but also attacks the sealing compound and is therefore risky. The recommended middle path is to have an engraver or locksmith cover the gold inlay with the usual black wax stick, which significantly tones down the engraving without harming the substance. Generally there is also an argument for keeping engravings as part of the pen's history. Careful polishing with Wenol is acceptable on old models too, as long as the work is not too aggressive; for repairs HMS is recommended.

### How can larger collections of fountain pens be displayed long-term so they don't "go stale" in a cupboard?

Pen portfolios, e.g. those by Gutberlet (gutberlet.com) or collection portfolios from penboard.de, have proven good for keeping pens well protected. For a showcase look Montblanc offers a piano-lacquer black collector box that costs around 550 euros depending on size and holds up to 20 pens; variants in blue, green and a dark-brown wooden case matching the Mozart collection with an embossed star are also known. In daily use pieces are often kept in cases or pen stands. Leather loops in simple folders often do not hold ideally and are described as a sub-optimal solution. For exact prices ask at the boutique, as these collector boxes are not always listed.

### How do you clean and polish precious-resin writing instruments safely?

The precious resin used by Montblanc is a modified methyl methacrylate (Plexiglas) and tolerates cleaning with water and washing-up liquid as well as, to a limited extent, low-volatile alkanes such as octane. Strictly avoid alcohols, esters (nail-polish remover), ketones (acetone), aromatics (benzene, toluene) and chlorinated hydrocarbons (trichloroethane, chloroform), as they irreversibly damage the material within a very short time. For polishing, a water-soluble diamond paste with a grit of 0.25 µm (e.g. from Winter, Hamburg) is recommended; the polish Wenol is widespread in the collector scene and recommended by many repairers, but it has no declared grit size and can wear down coatings with repeated use. Cotton cloths should be as fresh as possible because detergent residues (zeolites) can cause micro-damage; microfibre cloths and unused cleaning cloths are a safe alternative.

### Is Wenol suitable as a polish for Montblanc fountain pens, and which agent is right for which material?

Wenol is well suited for writing instruments made of older celluloid, e.g. for classic 3-series models like the 342, but it should not be used on precious resin (Resin); there Xerapol or Displex deliver better results. On the 144 in precious resin Displex is unproblematic, on the celluloid 342 it is to be avoided since the material can swell strongly. Every polish removes substance from the surface and can additionally damage gold plating, which is why rings and clips should be covered with adhesive tape before polishing and frequent polishing should generally be avoided. Collectors point out that even Wenol can wear off gold plating with too much pressure, so one should always work sparingly and selectively.

### How do you reconnect the front section of a Montblanc 31 (3rd series of the 1950s) permanently to the barrel when both are loose after soaking in water?

On the Montblanc 31, by factory design, the front section and barrel are screwed, not glued; sealing is provided by a sealing ring that is set firm by the thread. If the front section can be pulled off without a thread, this regularly indicates a clean break or an earlier improper repair attempt in which the original thread was lost and the parts were then glued. Adhesive residues inside the front section as well as the absence of a recognisable thread starting point typically confirm this finding. In this case the pen is usually only fit as a parts donor; attempts to glue the connection again rarely lead to lasting results because of the ink-tightness required. Models from the 1950s can otherwise be unscrewed without problems for cleaning, with the rings not being mixed up.

### Why does ink remain stuck in converters so the pen skips, and how can it be remedied?

The problem is a classic ventilation and adhesion issue: in the converter an air cushion must always remain between piston and ink, otherwise the pressure ratios change while writing and the ink flow breaks off. Even with sufficient air space, ink can adhere to the plastic walls because different converter plastics have differently strong adhesion forces; this was particularly pronounced on some Graf von Faber-Castell converters, less strong on Montblanc. Montblanc places a loose metal spiral in newer converters that keeps the ink moving and largely eliminates the problem; the current Parker piston converter also uses a spiral. A practical remedy is cleaning with diluted soap solution to reduce adhesion, or switching to cartridge or piston pens, on which the problem does not occur or only in a strongly mitigated form by design.

### Which Wenol (red or blue tube) and which alternatives are suitable for polishing fine scratches out of the precious resin of a Montblanc Meisterstück ballpoint?

On precious resin both red and blue Wenol work, with blue Wenol having finer abrasive bodies and therefore being somewhat gentler; perceptible differences in the end result are small. Since Wenol has not been available in drugstores for years (range cleanup), collectors source it online, even at increased prices. As an alternative, Displex has proven itself; originally developed for mobile-phone and watch acrylic glass, it delivers good results on the precious resin of Meisterstücks; on metal parts such as rings and clip Displex is, however, unsuitable, where Cape Cod or polishing cloths from Greg Stevens are recommended. Since every polish removes material, gold plating should be covered with adhesive tape before application and polishing limited to what is necessary.

### Are Montblanc inks water-soluble, how often must a regularly used piston filler be cleaned, and how does hard tap water affect things?

Montblanc offers both water-soluble inks and iron-gall inks such as the royal blue (component damage is, according to the maker, not to be expected, only more frequent cleaning is required); water-soluble inks can be removed with clear water, document-proof inks need more elaborate methods. With regular use, flushing with clear water before each refill (typically every three weeks) and an overnight stand in a glass of water suffice; the nib cannot bend in the process. Iron-gall residues dissolve with the cleaning agent of a silver-cleaning cloth or in an ultrasonic bath. Hard tap water, in experience, leaves slight limescale deposits and cleans worse than soft water, which is why in lime-rich regions the use of distilled or filtered water for the final rinse is recommended.

### How do you correctly clean and store dip nibs such as quill or glass nibs so that they neither encrust nor bend?

Both steel and glass nibs should be cleaned immediately after every writing process before ink or Indian ink dries; with normal fountain-pen inks lukewarm tap water suffices; with Indian inks suitable cleaning fluids are needed. Quill pens are basically removed from the holder and stored lying flat, not standing, so as not to deform the delicate slit. With glass nibs careful handling is important, since the fine grooves break easily. Regular cleaning is the most important measure for prolonging life, supplemented by dry, dust-free storage in a case or drawer away from direct sunlight.

### Where can collector boxes for 10 to 20 high-quality writing instruments be obtained?

Montblanc offered a collector box of black piano lacquer for 20 writing instruments in two layers, which is officially probably no longer in the range but is partly still obtainable via boutiques such as Munich. Alternatives are found at specialised suppliers: the Sini collector case via fountainpen.de, wooden boxes from maxpens.de for about 13 pens, and collector boxes with glass lid from Lindauer for around 20 pens. Via penboard.de from Tom Westerich there is a cheaper box for 40 pens at around 90 euros. For individual quantities, custom-making by a leather worker is recommended; a small case for seven pens costs about 80 euros. In regular stationery trade such boxes are barely in stock; a direct enquiry with the supplier is usually necessary.

### Does mobile-display polish like Displex damage the gold plating on writing instruments, and what does Montblanc service do in such cases?

Ultimately every polish, whether Displex or Wenol, attacks the gold plating, which is why writing instruments should be polished as rarely as possible. Displex is well suited to precious-resin surfaces but can lead to dissolution effects on gold alloys such as fittings and pen stands. Subsequent re-gilding of fittings is mostly not possible, since these are firmly bonded to the resin. The Montblanc service offers in such cases an exchange of the affected part for a new one; a pen stand was, for example, exchanged for 49 euros. Damaged original parts are shredded or burned by Montblanc, since only flawless goods may be used.

### How is a Montblanc 342 to be disassembled and cleaned, and what do the markings on the writing instrument mean?

For disassembly the piston screw is fully turned back so that a gap arises between knurl and screw; the knurled disc as part of the mechanism is loosened in a multi-jaw collet of a lathe. The cap top can be unscrewed with a piece of leather or bicycle tube, never with pliers, since these destroy the cap top. The feed sleeve with the two slots is unscrewed with a matching assembly key, and the feed driven out from rear to front with a punch; alternatively, after soaking in an ultrasonic bath or in water, nib and feed can be pulled out. The small bore in the cap is a ventilation hole against condensation, which however accelerates drying. The M on the piston screw denotes the nib width Medium. All threads are right-hand threads; the grip section is often firmly glued and should then not be loosened.

### What causes start-up problems on fountain pens, and how can they be remedied?

Starting problems can have several causes: viscous or thick inks like some Montblanc inks cause skipping on certain nibs; Waterman inks often flow better. Dried ink residues clog the feed and can be removed by repeated flushing with cold water or soaking, possibly also in an ultrasonic bath, but not on wood or celluloid pens. With new pens with converter, the high adhesion of plastic can slow ink flow. A nib unsuitable for the writing position is also a frequent cause, especially with oblique nibs and signatures with a flying start. Paper also influences starting behaviour considerably; testing in specialist trade should be done with one's own everyday paper. With nib tipping grind, the nib's set angle decides whether ink flow starts reliably.

### How do you correctly clean a Montblanc Traveller 147, and is a piston converter necessary for that?

According to Montblanc service, flushing with clear cold or lukewarm water suffices; after flushing, the pen should lie open so the water residues can evaporate. A piston converter is not strictly necessary. With heavily dried ink or crusts, e.g. after leaked cartridges, soaking, an ultrasonic bath with distilled water or, if needed, sending in for inspection helps. An inspection at Montblanc costs between 39 and 49 euros, without nib exchange. Certain inks, especially iron-gall-containing black-blue cartridges, attack material and gold plating; iron-gall-free alternatives like Pelikan cartridges are recommended. Cleaning the Bohème with retractable nib requires, due to the delicate mechanism, other precautions.

Related pages on fountainpen.de:
• Montblanc Meisterstück 147 Traveller: https://www.fountainpen.de/c-montblanc-meisterstueck-147-en.htm

### Is a quick clean by disassembly and rinsing under running water harmful for Pelikan piston pens?

Rinsing with cold water alone does not harm a piston pen; unscrewing the nib unit is unproblematic on the newer model. On old Pelikan models like 100 and 100N, the mechanism should only be sparingly disassembled, since the celluloid barrel thread tears easily; celluloid can be repaired but only by few specialists. Ammonia and alcohol must be kept away from the material and should not be used. Pigmented inks like Parker Penman are critical because they can bake the piston during long inactivity; before each writing pause of one to two weeks, cleaning is sensible. For care of the piston seal, a thin silicone film is recommended, but only a non-additionally-modified silicone.

### Is cleaning a Montblanc fountain pen in an ultrasonic bath harmful, and how do you correctly clean more modern models?

An ultrasonic bath is unproblematic on modern writing instruments, provided the pen does not stay in the bath too long; on wood or celluloid devices it is to be advised against. Gentle routine cleaning succeeds through repeated filling with water until no ink residues come out. Water-soluble royal-blue inks dissolve again with water even after long drying; with coloured inks cleaning is more difficult and requires partly a complete disassembly and mechanical cleaning of the feed. The rumour that Montblanc ink contains particularly many and firm particles does not apply; it counts among easy-flowing inks. Care is required for all brands and price levels. Waterman inks have a musty smell but are flow-technically good but should, on Waterman nibs, occasionally cause corrosion at the grip-section end.

### How do you correctly care for and store Writers Edition writing instruments, and does use diminish collector value?

Unused writing instruments are basically more valuable than used ones, since in everyday use small scratches inevitably appear; on rarities like the Lorenzo the value difference can amount to several thousand euros. Modern pens can be stored without problems after thorough cleaning and then need no further care. For external cleaning normal lint-free cotton cloths or eyeglass cleaning cloths (without anti-fog impregnation) suffice; special Montblanc cloths are not superior. Ballpoint refills are the only wear parts; their exchange hardly affects value.

### How do typical damages arise on the Montblanc 149 (crack in cap star, crookedly seated nib, gold abrasion), and since when do 149s carry serial numbers?

Cracks in the cap material typically arise from falls onto hard surfaces and are only repairable at cost (around 50 to 100 euros). A crookedly seated nib is no serious defect and can be straightened with a lint-free cloth and two fingers without ink flow suffering, provided the nib is not bent in itself. Gold abrasion on rings and clip frequently occurs on older writing instruments, e.g. through tight stowing with other pens. The photos show a feed and clip from about 15 to 20 years ago, so from a time when serial numbers had not yet been incorporated into the clip.

### How does the Montblanc cleaning cartridge for cartridge pens (e.g. Bohème) work, and is it normal that after cleaning ink is drawn into the cartridge?

The cleaning cartridge is, according to the instructions, used about every three months and is suitable for all Montblanc cartridge pens except the Meisterstück Traveller. After pumping, on release a suction arises that draws some ink from the nib unit into the cartridge; that is normal, since the cleaning fluid first has to soften and dissolve the old ink. With heavily dried ink, multiple flushing with water can additionally be necessary. The first generation of cleaning cartridges was meanwhile withdrawn from sale, since the mixture of the cleaning fluid had to be revised.

### How do you clean and use a Montblanc Meisterstück 144, and is carrying it with a filled converter unproblematic?

For cleaning the pen is unscrewed at the grip section and the converter flushed several times with lukewarm water until the water stays clear; the nib must not be unscrewed. Cartridges do not need to be pierced but are simply inserted and connected through slight pressure. An intact pen can be carried in a leather case without problems with a filled converter, even temporarily nib-down; ideally, however, the nib is carried up, which is why the clip is sensible. On aircraft the nib should always point up to avoid leakage. A resource with animations on filling types can be found on the Visconti website.

Related pages on fountainpen.de:
• Montblanc Meisterstück 144 (Classique predecessor): https://www.fountainpen.de/c-montblanc-meisterstueck-144-en.htm

### Which mistakes should be avoided when self-repairing vintage pens (e.g. for renewing a shrunken cork), and how do you proceed correctly?

For access to the piston cork the grip section must first be unscrewed; it is connected to the barrel via a resin-sealed thread; this resin melts on careful warming faster than the plastic of the barrel, but on too much heat or force, breakage damage is unavoidable. For loosening, a small pipe wrench without sharp teeth with leather underneath is recommended, plus fingertip sensitivity. The feed with nib is either disassembled at the section or driven out from behind through the barrel with a supporting block (small vice); the section must absolutely be supported, otherwise it breaks. Warming with a hairdryer is helpful. Anyone failing repeatedly should leave the repair to experienced specialists, since the follow-up costs of damaged nibs, feeds and grip sections far exceed the original effort.

### What causes the rosé sheen on Montblanc leather products of the Limited Anniversary Editions 1924 and 75, and how can it be removed or avoided?

The rosé sheen on the fine nappa leather forms even without light exposure and is traced to an oxide layer, presumably favoured by outgassing plasticisers of the plastic inserts. Collectors report that the sheen can be reliably removed with Collonil Premium Leather Polish (colourless); Montblanc itself sells the agent as part of the Leather Care Set (ID 02756). On application one should wipe only in one direction, not circle, and let the agent dry afterwards. The product is also cheaply available in shoe shops. An effective prevention does not seem to exist, but regular care counts as a tested countermeasure.

### How do you clean a Montblanc fountain pen in which the ink has heavily dried and the feed is completely clogged?

First step is long soaking: place the feed in water for several days to soften dried ink. If that does nothing, only mechanical cleaning helps, i.e. pulling out nib and feed and cleaning with a soft toothbrush. Anyone without experience in disassembling should send the pen to Montblanc; there the feed is cleaned or replaced if needed.

### How can signature engravings on several Montblanc writing instruments be colour-matched if older engravings look faded?

The colour fill of milled engravings undergoes natural shrinkage and can normally be refilled with lacquer paint as a free service by authorised Montblanc dealers or directly by Montblanc service. It is sensible to send in all affected pens at the same time so colour tone and depth become uniform. With scratches on cap or top, polishing first helps; a complete cap exchange is possible but costly.

### Can an older Montblanc No. 31 (60s/70s) be polished without damage to remove micro-scratches?

The barrel of the Montblanc No. 31 is made of Plexiglas and can be polished without problems; micro-scratches can largely be removed in this way. On the metal parts caution is warranted, since the gold plating can be worn off by too strong polishing. Further hints are given in the newsletter on fountainpen.de.

### Does a market need exist for a special glass safe to store and present high-quality writing-instrument collections safely?

Collectors see a small but worldwide market potential for such a glass safe and suggest also designing a variant with additional storage option. Important is that the mere acquisition of a safe does not automatically increase household-insurance protection; necessary is the adjustment of the insurance sum, which not every insurer accepts. With marketing materials, picture selection should be made carefully, e.g. so as not to show ambiguous historical insignia.

### Are the felt-and-leather pen cleaners offered at Manufactum suitable for cleaning high-quality gold nibs with platinum coating?

The classic pen cleaners are unsuitable for high-quality nibs because abrasion is too high and especially gold platings and platinum coatings can be worn off. They are also problematic for gold-plated stainless-steel nibs. As everyday care for high-quality nibs not to be recommended; rather usable as a nostalgic collector's piece or for simple school nibs.

### How should fountain pens of celluloid or hard rubber be stored long-term safely to prevent material damage?

Celluloid pens should, during long storage, be filled with water about every three months; some of it is absorbed by the material and prolongs its life; the rest evaporates via cap-residue condensation. Hard rubber and celluloid must be stored light-protected, since especially sunlight leads to discolouration (hard rubber turns grey to fawn through sulphur oxidation) and material decomposition. Celluloid is typically recognised by powerful, colourful colours; hard rubber by dark, muted tones like black, dark red or muted orange; reliable distinction of black pieces is visually hardly possible. Functioning collector pieces should not be stored with ink but with water, since ink on drying damages mechanism and seals; before storage, thorough flushing is needed. Writing instruments after 1960 can be stored without water filling but should be flushed beforehand.

### Can discolourations on a hard-rubber pen (Kaweco Elite 187F) caused by long bath in water with detergent be reversed?

Hard rubber contains a high sulphur content activated by water or UV light and depositing as superficial discolouration; in ultrasonic baths the effect occurs within seconds. Re-colouring the material is not possible, but the sulphur film can be removed mechanically by careful polishing, although here too slightly material and thus possibly surface structures or fine engravings are removed. Older Montblanc pens can also be of hard rubber or celluloid and react similarly; celluloid can develop cracks after drying with too long water contact.

### How can stubborn ink deposits be removed from an old feed (e.g. Greif Gold from the 1940s)?

On old writing instruments, ink pigments penetrate the material surface and there form a relatively firm bond with the material that cannot be fully removed either by mere soaking or in the ultrasonic bath. Mechanical work is necessary: collectors use sheet-metal gauges, a scalpel from medical supply or used dentist's instruments from flea markets to clean the channels of the feed cautiously. Before exchanging a feed it should be checked whether an original-faithful replacement is available — not every feed fits mechanically or capillary-technically all models.

### How do you correctly care for writing instruments and cases of ostrich or alligator leather?

For exotic leather types like ostrich, crocodile or alligator leather, a special American care wax is suitable that works with natural oils and preserves the leather over long periods almost like new. Montblanc on enquiry also confirms that care wax is the only correct agent for such leather types — conventional leather care or creams are not suitable. Application should be sparing and at regular intervals to preserve the natural structure of the leather.

### What to do if a Meisterstück 149 (e.g. Andree Putman set) draws air on filling and barely takes up ink any more?

The behaviour described — air emerging from the nib on drawing up, barely ink absorption — is a classic symptom of a clogged feed. Even a single filling with dried black ink can suffice to clog the capillaries so much that feed and piston have to be exchanged. As a first measure, long, multi-day soaking with subsequent flushing is to be tried. If that brings no success, factory repair at Montblanc is unavoidable; they routinely carry out such complete cleanings.

Related pages on fountainpen.de:
• Montblanc Meisterstück 149 (Grand Format): https://www.fountainpen.de/c-montblanc-meisterstueck-149-en.htm

### Which polish is suitable to polish a Montblanc Meisterstück 144 from the 1950s?

The Meisterstücks of the 1950s consist of celluloid, not acrylic, which is why agents like Displex must absolutely be avoided — they attack the surface and can outright decompose it. Wenol with its fine abrasive particles has proven itself; it delivers a smooth surface without aggressive dissolving and is available in automotive or specialist trade. Displex by contrast is well suited for modern Plexiglas writing instruments. With good preservation of the piece, only restrained polishing is recommended in principle.

### How can the gold lettering (model engraving) of an older Kaweco Sport contaminated by polish be cleaned gently?

Very cautiously a soft toothbrush and water can first be tried to remove polish residues from the engraving without washing out the colour fill with it. If that brings no success or the colour is already largely washed out, going to a specialist dealer is advisable, who refills the engraving outpatient with special engraving paste or engraving pens. Aggressive cleaners are to be avoided, since they additionally remove the remaining colour and only leave a blind engraving. Professional refilling is the most reliable method to restore the original appearance.

### How do you store fountain pens (Pelikan M400/M600, Montblanc 146) during longer non-use — with water, ink or empty?

For writing instruments from the 1960s no special storage measures are necessary. On longer non-use the pen should be emptied and flushed to avoid drying out and ink residues. Document-proof or black inks are more problematic on extended standing time than water-soluble inks like Pelikan 4001 Blue. As long as ink flow is flawless on resumption, longer filled storage has generally caused no permanent damage.

### How do you best store a button-filler pen (e.g. Montblanc 222) of celluloid — with or without ink sac?

Subsequent fitting of an ink sac is unproblematic, provided the sac is afterwards not filled with ink but flushed with water after the writing test; ink is unsuitable for old writing instruments. More important than the sac itself is the state of the nib clamp: strongly oxidised clamps should be replaced, since they otherwise cause discolouration on the celluloid. If one has the ink sac fitted by a restorer, it should be agreed not to glue the grip section to the barrel again, so one can later look inside. The optimal storage of celluloid button fillers without ink sac takes place in a humidor.

### Which Montblanc case fits a 144 if a Bohème case with zip is preferred, and which cases have dividers?

The normal Bohème case is only made for the shorter Bohème; a 144 does not fit, at most into the rarely seen Bohème Big Size case. Florence cases have no dividers; Sienna cases have dividers, which, however, are only about 5 cm long and do not reach the bottom, which can lead to scratch marks. As zip alternatives for a single writing instrument, Montblanc offers cases and leather sleeves with 15–16 cm length and the Ladystar case (16 cm). For several pens with zip Montblanc has nothing fitting; here collectors switch to makers like Golden Head from leather-goods trade.

### Why does the piston mechanism of a Montblanc 146 become stiff when the pen is only stored with distilled water?

Distilled water has a high surface tension and lubricates the piston worse, by which wall friction rises and the mechanism becomes stiff. Remedy is provided by a drop of detergent per about 100 ml of distilled water, which lowers surface tension by a factor of about 3.5; before resumption thorough flushing should follow. Lubrication with sewing-machine oil is expressly warned against — it harms the pen. Frequent flushing with tap water between every filling is regarded as too much; one should only clean if the pen makes problems. If stiffness returns, repair should again take place at Montblanc.

### Which practical solutions for storing a growing writing-instrument collection exist beyond the expensive original cases?

The original Montblanc collector boxes are high-quality but expensive; inexpensive leather cases (e.g. by Jürgen Kuhse or Penboard) hold up to 40 writing instruments, are space-saving, mobile and fit well in DIN A4 bank safe-deposit boxes. The Kaweco Cube by Blankenhorn takes 60 pens (24 visible) in a rotating glass/wood cube and counts as price-attractive but is not mobile. Custom drawer inserts at the carpenter (velvet-covered wooden grid) also offer a beautiful but location-bound solution. Further options are cases by Roberto Possar or display cases. Important is material choice: plasticisers in adhesives or linings can attack coatings, so materials should be carefully checked.

### How do you bend a bent clip of a Montblanc ballpoint (e.g. 164) straight again?

Practical is to unscrew the cap top and remove the clip; only when removed can it be evenly brought back into shape. Then the cap top is simply screwed back on. Anyone not wanting to make the intervention themselves drops off the pen at a Montblanc boutique. Concrete costs for a complete clip or rear-end exchange were not named in the thread.

### What does the Montblanc Florence etui cost and is it still available?

The Florence etuis were last priced at 150 euros for the one-pen and 160 euros for the two- to three-pen variant. They are no longer in Montblanc's official line-up and are only available through old dealer stock. Many find the successor Siena too small, since larger Limited or Writers Editions like the Dickens or a 149 do not fit. The remaining alternative is then the Oblong etui.

### How does one deal with an S.T. Dupont fountain pen in which dried ink has caused longer storage problems?

With ink that has not dried for too long, thorough rinsing under running water helps, possibly soaking overnight in lukewarm water. More practical in the long run is the use of a piston converter instead of cartridges: with this, bottled ink can be used, the ink level is visible, and cleaning and ink changes are much easier. Before longer storage phases, the fountain pen should generally be emptied and cleaned to avoid drying out in the feed.

### What are the causes of a piston mechanism in Montblanc fountain pens that becomes stiff over time, and how can this be remedied?

With piston fillers, ink residues, dried-out seals or limescale deposits can make the piston stiff over time. Cleaning with distilled or deionised water is partly viewed critically; some collectors recommend normal tap water or a brief bath in an ultrasonic cleaner. Inks used should be water-soluble where possible, since non-water-soluble inks can leave residues inside the piston. If cleaning does not help, servicing by the manufacturer or a specialist (e.g. Horst Schrage / maxpens) is sensible, since the seal or piston has to be replaced.

### How does a considerable amount of dried ink end up accumulating in the cap of an older Montblanc Classic?

Collectors report that over long idle periods, ink residues accumulate in the cap and dry into a concentrate, since ink consists predominantly of water and the remaining pigment sinks to the bottom when cleaning. When cleaning, one should be careful: with some old celluloid models, black ink in particular attacks the material from inside, so that the cap can even break in a water bath. Careful rinsing under running water, followed by a water bath, is usually sufficient to clean the cap without damaging the pen.

### What can one do if a used Montblanc Marcel Proust loses ink at the threads, and what service costs are to be expected for Limited Editions?

With ink leakage at the threads, either a leaking screw connection between grip section and barrel or a crack in the reservoir is to be considered. Limited Editions are only repairable to a limited extent: Montblanc does have spare parts, but their availability is limited, and repair flat rates for LEs are significantly higher than for regular models. In the case described, a cracked ink reservoir was indeed diagnosed; the repair cost around 403 euros. A direct telephone clarification with Montblanc service is recommended; shipping should always be insured.

### How can scratches on a Montblanc Meisterstück Stainless Steel ballpoint be polished out and removed?

Hand polishing alone is not enough on stainless steel; some collectors report that polishing with products like Wenol has even worsened the result. More effective is processing with a polishing machine at sufficient speed and pressure, possibly combined with a final polish using a Venol-water mixture and an old leather belt as a polishing carrier. Deeper scratches must be ground out beforehand. For professional refurbishment, knife makers or goldsmiths in the area are suitable contacts. The material properties of the stainless steel are overall rather critically assessed.

### Can cracks in the plexiglass of a Montblanc 146 cap be filled in oneself, or is a replacement at the service centre necessary?

Cracks, unlike fine scratches, cannot be filled in by polishing with products like Displex. A new cap from service costs about 49 euros; however, today's 146 caps are not compatible with those from the 1990s. In 2000, the LeGrand was changed: the diameter was enlarged, the blue ink window replaced by a corrugated one, and the bicolour nib introduced. Anyone who sends in the pen effectively gets back a completely new body (except for their own nib). Alternatives are the targeted search for an old cap (eBay, forums) or accepting the crack as long as the pen writes flawlessly.

### Why do fountain pens often drip at the grip section in everyday use, and what can the cause be?

Dripping can have various causes: temperature fluctuations, a clogged feed, surfactant residues in the system after cleaning as well as low air pressure (e.g. when flying). Current writing instruments are tested in climatic chambers and under varying pressure conditions, so that modern models do not blot under normal use as a rule; with vintage writing instruments from the 1950s it occurs more often. Often the problem also lies in improper handling or wrong filling technique — instruction at the specialist retailer can help here. For frequent flying, the StarWalker is regarded as particularly insensitive.

### Does a Montblanc pen stand with plug-on cap cause abrasion marks on the barrel of the 149, and how does one best store the fountain pen in it?

With plug-on cap pen stands, slight abrasion marks on the barrel cannot be avoided over time, since the rim of the plug rubs on the barrel. The previously usual thread solution was abolished because many users damaged the fountain pen when unscrewing it. Recommended is to place the 149 nib down in the pen stand and put the cap loosely on the back; this avoids friction on the polished barrel and saves a step. Frequent polishing of the barrel is not advisable, since the material thickness decreases and predetermined breaking points can develop.

### What can one do if a Montblanc 320 no longer delivers ink despite cleaning?

Before a complete disassembly, ultrasonic cleaning is the most productive step; on many 320 models, dried ink residues are the cause of a blocked ink flow. On model 320, nib and feed cannot, as on the 22 or 24, be pressed out backwards, since grip section and feed are made of one piece. If when filling rattling noises occur and bubbles form on the piston shaft, this points to a hairline crack on the body — in this case no further cleaning helps; the writing instrument should be carefully examined for cracks before purchase.

### How can small scratches and dull surfaces on modern Montblanc precious-resin writing instruments be polished up again?

A polishing wheel of about 300 mm diameter and 80 mm width at around 500 revolutions per minute, combined with various polishing and shine pastes, is recommended. With deeper scratches from about 0.12 mm depth, fine polishing paper of 1000 to 2000 grit should be used as preparation before machine polishing. With this, precious-resin surfaces can largely be returned to a near-mint condition.

### How does the lead loading on the Montblanc Oscar Wilde mechanical pencil work and where does the rattling inside come from?

Operation is exclusively via rotation; an additional lead is not drawn in by the rotary mechanism but introduced from the front via the removable cap. The audible rattling comes from spare leads that lie loosely in the mechanism and can be taken out and reinserted as required. The mechanism is therefore, due to its function, not entirely silent acoustically.

### How does one polish precious-resin surfaces of Montblanc fountain pens without damaging them?

For current Meisterstücks made of precious resin, Xerapol and Displex have proven themselves; both deliver comparable results, Xerapol is cheaper. Polywatch (actually for plastic watch glasses) is also successfully used. With the corrugated ink windows of newer 146s and 149s, caution is advised, since the polish slightly attacks the surface and the window can darken slightly. Important: never apply these polishes to writing instruments made of celluloid; there they are not suitable.

### How does one store fountain pens with cork seals over a longer period so that the seal does not become porous?

Writing instruments with cork seals should be stored permanently moist, ideally filled with distilled water to avoid limescale deposits. Storage can be lying flat; with piston fillers also upright, but with the nib up, so that the seal remains wetted; the feed does not have to be kept moist. With fountain pens with rubber sac, it is recommended to remove the sac and only renew it when needed, since the plasticiser can cause discolouration on the material. Independent repairs should be avoided; defective seals are best renewed by specialists.

### How does one make a stuck rotary mechanism of a Montblanc 334 1/2 or 332 workable again?

With a dried-up or stuck piston mechanism, prolonged soaking helps in many cases: place the fountain pen with the nib part for several hours to days in lukewarm water, so that dried ink and resinified residues dissolve. In the "Care/Repair" section of the forum site, a detailed guide on this can be found under the keyword "Tipp bei eingetrocknetem Kolbenmechanismus". Force should under all circumstances be avoided, since otherwise the mechanism breaks; if the soaking is unsuccessful, a visit to a specialised repairer is worthwhile.

### Where can one obtain acrylic or plexiglass blocks for presenting a Montblanc collection in the showcase?

The typical acrylic or plexiglass presentation blocks from stationery trade are hardly available in retail but occasionally crop up on eBay. An alternative are Visconti boxes with transparent lid, which do not allow a 360-degree view but show writing instruments very appealingly; enquiries directly to Visconti are mostly not answered; sources are e.g. Mrs. Blankenhorn (fuellhalter.de) and scription.de.

### Is the peeling of the rubber coating on a Montblanc StarWalker Rubber a normal sign of wear or a counterfeit indicator?

A peeling colour or rubber coating is not normal and does not usually occur on originals; comparable defects are rather known from counterfeits. With an original piece, the pen can be exchanged within the warranty, although the exchange often only takes place after assessment by Montblanc customer service. Collectors advise having the writing instrument complained about and replaced.

### How does one rinse a Montblanc 146 piston filler in order to remove blue ink completely?

The fountain pen is filled and emptied several times with clear water; usually this is sufficient in less than a minute, until the water remains clear. With stubborn residues, one can place the pen overnight nib-down in a glass of water or shake it vigorously with water plus a little air, in order to loosen ink from the tank. Then push out residual water with the piston and dry the nib with a cloth. As a last resort, an ultrasonic bath with distilled water helps, into which, however, only the nib and at most 0.5 cm of the barrel should be immersed.

### Of what material is a Montblanc 149 from the 1970s made, and which polishing and cleaning method is suitable?

A 149 from the 1970s is made neither of celluloid nor of modern acrylic resin, but of a plastic mixed with plasticisers, as also used in the 12x and 22x series of this period. For polishing, Wenol has long been a tried and tested means; Displex is advised against. An ultrasonic cleaning is possible but should only be carried out with disassembled individual parts, at most 15 minutes at around 50 degrees and exclusively for internal cleaning, with the ink tank necessarily filled with water. Celluloid pens must not be put in an ultrasonic bath, since colour is leached out.

### Where can one have a used Montblanc Charles Dickens cleaned and signs of use on the precious resin polished out?

A professional ultrasonic cleaning is offered by competent specialist retailers as well as specialised providers like scription.de. The polishing out of scratches and signs of use, on the other hand, is carried out neither by Montblanc nor by most specialist retailers, because the surface material is thereby weakened and wall thicknesses are reduced; with newer writing instruments, the warranty also lapses. Specialised restorers like Dr. Ink Thomas Watkinson polish older pieces case by case. Polishing oneself is possible with Wenol; in doing so, coated metal parts are sensitive, since gold platings are quickly worn off.

### Is it normal that a Montblanc Bohème Marron dries up quickly, and are there special care notes?

A Bohème Marron should write without problems like any other Montblanc; repeated drying out is not normal. In such cases, the pen should be presented to an authorised specialist retailer or to service. Visible gold deposits at the barrel end or spots with peeling gilding are also not a known series problem and belong in expert assessment. Special home care is not necessary.

### Which special cleaning cartridges or rinse cartridges exist for cleaning cartridge fountain pens, especially for the Montblanc Bohème series?

Collectors report so-called bellows or rinse cartridges that function as a small rubber syringe similar to an ear syringe and pump water through the section. They existed e.g. as a GDR product under the brand name Heiko and in different neck lengths, so that long front parts (e.g. Montblanc Traveller and Bohème) can also be cleaned. Montblanc itself issued an extra-long variant with a glass body, since glass is more durable than plastic. In addition, a single-use cartridge by Montblanc was announced, filled with cleaning fluid and intended specifically for cleaning the Bohème cartridge fountain pens.

### How should an inherited Montblanc 149 (presumably from the 1950s) be prepared for longer storage, and what does an ink leak mean?

Collectors report that on a 149 without cork seal it suffices to flush the fountain pen with lukewarm water until no more ink residues come out; afterwards no further care is needed. Adding a few drops of ammonia water to the rinsing water removes last ink residues; the final rinse should be carried out with distilled water in order to avoid water spots. Ink leakage does not necessarily mean a piston defect — often the feed is clogged by carbon-black particles of black inks, so that the ink seeks another way. With a real piston problem or for professional cleaning, sending it to Montblanc is recommended; the service flat rate (max. about €49) is appropriate in relation to the value of the 149.

### How does one open the lead reservoir of a Montblanc pencil 251 to refill leads?

The mechanism is opened by pulling at the rear end; alternatively, filling from the front is possible. Required here is somewhat more force, without thereby damaging the pencil.

### What can lead, when cleaning a Montblanc Hemingway, to black ink emerging at the turning knob and at connection points, and how should one further proceed?

The phenomenon typically occurs when the fountain pen has not been used for a longer time and ink has dried; residues are not completely removed when moving the piston and reach, with the rinsing water, the mechanism. Since the mechanism is today made of plastic, no damage is mostly to be feared. Because of the high value of the Hemingway, the writing instrument should be entrusted to Montblanc service; a complete cleaning with disassembly and replacement of small parts costs up to about €49. In contrast to private repairers, Montblanc can in case of damage provide a replacement.

Related pages on fountainpen.de:
• Montblanc Writers Edition Hemingway (1992): https://www.fountainpen.de/writer-hemingway-en.htm

### How resilient is the clip of a Montblanc Mozart 114, especially when the fountain pen is additionally carried in a thin leather case in the inside pocket?

The clip is not constructed for permanent further spreading beyond the factory gap between cap and clip foot. If it is regularly bent further, it can wear out over time. When carrying in the inside pocket together with a case, the total gap should therefore not be larger than the distance directly under the clip foot. Original Montblanc leather cases (e.g. Sienna) are designed for this but are high-priced. An alternative thin fabric or leather sleeve additionally protects the nib if the barrel comes loose from the cap in the pocket and ink leaks out.

### How does one clean the ink window of a Pelikan 100N if it is discoloured by ink?

A complete cleaning does not succeed in every case; with ink that has remained in the pen for very long, the colour can eat into the material and is no longer to be removed. As a procedure, it is recommended to fill the fountain pen for a longer time with water and rinse regularly. Mechanical treatments with Wenol and cotton swabs experience shows mostly bring no significant improvement.

### How is an S.T. Dupont fountain pen rendered functional after a fall, and what costs are to be reckoned with?

With a stuttering ink flow after a fall, mere rinsing with water is mostly not enough, since the nib unit itself has to be adjusted. Recommended is direct sending to Dupont Germany as an insured parcel, possibly after telephone notice with request for a quote. The repair (purely technical, without cosmetic refurbishment) is delivered cash on delivery; in the reported case the costs were €44 with an impeccable result.

### Does graphite powder from the sharpening process settle problematically on the Montblanc SketchPen despite tapping out?

Experiences with the SketchPen are rare, since the model is little known. With comparable sharpening pens of other manufacturers, no critical graphite accumulation has been reported. The design of the SketchPen is praised; the comparatively thick lead appeals more to writers who prefer stronger line widths.

### Can a Montblanc 220 piston filler (built 1971-1977) be converted into a cartridge filler?

The Montblanc 220 is a rather inexpensive model from the 1970s, since Montblanc has only consistently positioned itself as a luxury brand from 1991 onwards. Generally, a piston filler cannot be converted into a cartridge filler. Conversely, however, a converter can be inserted into a cartridge filler and one can fill optionally with cartridge or from the ink bottle. With a leaking viewing window or a loosened piston, professional repair is recommended instead of DIY solutions with adhesive tape.

### Does the resin of modern Montblanc Meisterstücks tolerate direct sunlight on a windowsill?

Embrittlement or significant colour changes are not to be expected with the resin used (similar to plexiglass) even with light exposure in the short term, since the material is regarded as very lightfast. Nevertheless, a windowsill is not a good storage location: sun, heating warmth and above all the dry thermal air cause the ink in the fountain pen to dry up rapidly. Dried-up fountain pens may not simply be refilled but must first be flushed with water. For permanent storage, cool, shady places are significantly better suited.

### How can an Omas Paragon piston filler be repaired that draws air on filling and hardly takes up ink?

Description with bubbling air and low ink uptake points primarily to a leaking piston, not to a missing ventilation. Drilling additional holes is not necessary and not to be recommended. Instead, the piston should be properly repaired, e.g. by an Omas-experienced repairer (e.g. Tom Westerich, penboard.de). Silicone grease on the turning-knob thread can indeed increase tightness but is not causal for the actual problem.

### How does one remove dried residues of Montblanc Blue-Black (containing iron-gall) from the nib of a Pelikan 146?

A moistened silver-cleaning cloth has proved its worth: the cleaning agent contained in the cloth is brought onto the ink residues by wringing out and can act there; afterwards careful polishing follows. Dry polishing is mostly not enough. Soft water dissolves the residues better than hard; with iron-gall inks, iron compounds deposit stubbornly and have to be loosened mechanically gently. With this procedure, users experience very good results.

### How does one clean the tip of a Kaweco NYL fountain pen without damaging it?

The NYL tip can without hesitation be placed in water. Users report that the nibs after the water bath write like new. Special cleaning agents or precautionary measures are not necessary.

### Who can repair a defective screw thread on the Montblanc rollerball 162, and what costs are to be expected?

Modern Montblanc writing instruments can only be repaired by the manufacturer itself, so the rollerball must be sent to Montblanc in Hamburg. Before shipping, a call to customer service is recommended in order to enquire about the expected costs. A cheaper repair option through third parties does not exist.

### How does one clean a SENSA ballpoint of sterling silver, especially the sensitive grip region, without damaging it?

For cleaning silver surfaces, simple silver-cleaning cloths from the drugstore are suitable, which gently free the silver from tarnish. With the soft grip region (as SENSA ballpoints have), particular caution is advised, since aggressive agents can attack the material. About the SENSA brand itself, there are so far hardly any entries in the forum.

### How does one clean a Pelikan M200 Demonstrator that has been discoloured by red ink, and which ink brands are unproblematic?

Red ink is, due to its aggressive dye and the interaction with plasticisers, particularly critical and seeps into many plastics, so that the discolouration can no longer be completely removed. This affects all ink manufacturers equally. For demonstrator fountain pens, blue or black inks should preferably be used in order to minimise the risk of permanent discolouration. Material differences between manufacturers like Montblanc and Pelikan are in this respect largely comparable.

### How does one clean the thread on the barrel of a Montblanc 146P of ink deposits without damaging the fountain pen?

A soft-bristled toothbrush is excellently suited for cleaning the thread, since it gently removes residues without scratching the material. Normal toothbrushes are often too hard and should be avoided. Additionally, filtered water (e.g. from a Brita filter) can be used, since it dissolves ink residues from tank and feed faster, especially with hard tap water.

### Is water behind the ink piston in the filling mechanism of a Montblanc 31 problematic?

Since the filling mechanism of the 31 is made of plastic, water that has entered behind the converter is not critical and does no permanent damage. It suffices to let the water evaporate before the pen is used again. Generally, water should only reach places designed for it, but on the 31 the risk is low.

### How does one clean a Montblanc 146 from the 1970s, and what to do if an insert emerges from the grip section when unscrewing?

The narrow ring at the front of the grip section (the lip) is structurally fitted; if this or an insert behind it with rubber seal comes loose, only Montblanc itself can carry out the professional repair. A self-repair is not to be recommended, since the tight reassembly requires special material. Collectors urgently recommend knowing the correct construction before unscrewing in order to avoid such disassembly damages.

### How does one clean fountain pens that have been unused for a long time and in which the ink has dried up? Which water, which agents and when is the cleaning process complete?

Dried-up fountain pens can be cleaned by soaking in water and repeated drawing up and flushing. The cleaning process is complete as soon as the water comes out clear from the fountain pen. A detailed guide to the care and cleaning of fountain pens can be found in the section Pflege/Reparatur of the community. Aggressive cleaning agents should be avoided; lukewarm water is generally sufficient.

### Is red Wenol suitable for polishing a Montblanc Monte Rosa or 342, and what alternatives exist?

With Wenol, the surfaces of writing instruments of plexiglass/precious resin, celluloid or hard rubber can be well polished. With metal parts, on the other hand, caution is advised, since gildings are very thin and can easily be polished off. For plexiglass surfaces, Displex additionally comes into question, but only if the material really is plexiglass; on celluloid it would dissolve the material. Polishes basically remove material; therefore one should rather polish restrainedly and carefully or preserve the existing condition.

### What to do against fine, hard-to-remove fluff or membranes in the ink window of a used-bought Montblanc 146?

Such fluff is generally a purely optical defect without influence on the writing behaviour. It mostly does not come from the ink but is introduced into the fountain pen via cheap paper and the nib; iron-gall inks as a cause are rather unlikely. A brief ultrasonic bath is unproblematic on modern 146s with plastic mechanism but is to be avoided on older fountain pens from the 50s with brass mechanism. Often simply patience with repeated rinsing helps; often such particles only loosen after many cleanings.

### How can the rubber-sac ink container of a Parker 51 from the 1950s be best protected from drying out during longer idle times?

A preventive treatment with tallow can delay the ageing of the rubber sac. Ultimately, however, with rubber sacs it cannot be avoided that they have to be exchanged from time to time. Replacement sacs for the Parker 51 are available, e.g., via vintagepensacsandparts.com.

### How do I remove a bluish discolouration at the tip of a Montblanc gold nib, and how can it be avoided in future?

The bluish discolouration arises because 14- or 18-carat gold contains alloy components that oxidise over time. In most cases the deposit can already be removed with a moist cleaning cloth; alternatively a silver-cleaning cloth works, which however should not be used too intensively, since it simultaneously slightly wears off the platinum plating. Dipping fluid for silver was not tested and is therefore not recommended. As a preventive measure, regular light cleaning without aggressive material removal helps.

### How is the inner cap of a Montblanc Meisterstück fastened if it keeps coming loose when removing the cap?

The inner cap is at the upper end provided with a threaded sleeve into which the cap top with the white star is screwed via a threaded rod. The rod runs through the outer cap and the clip, so that on tightening the clip is fixed simultaneously. The correct procedure is therefore screwing in instead of gluing; if the inner cap comes loose, this screw connection is presumably missing or has come loose.

### Which case is suitable for the scratch-free storage of a Montblanc 146 and a 161 ballpoint, ideally with separate chambers?

Separate chambers are in practice not strictly necessary, since Montblanc cases with proper use hardly leave scratches. Recommended are especially the Sienna cases, on which the clip can be pushed over the leather and the clip nub can snap into a provided groove; this prevents the writing instruments from slipping and rubbing against each other. Overall Montblanc offers a wide selection, so a suitable model can be found.

### What does it mean if ink accumulates over time at the bottom of the holder of a Montblanc Desk Base 204?

An accumulation of ink at the holder bottom can point to a leaking piston, especially if red ink was used, which is more problematic in old pens. In a practical test over seven days with daily writing samples and slanted hanging outside the holder, however, no drop emerged, which speaks rather against a defect. Instead, storage with the nib pointing down can lead to ink emerging drop by drop and accumulating at the bottom. If the pen, however, is stored outside the holder, starting problems frequently occur, so storage in the holder is the better compromise.

### How can a Montblanc 244 be disassembled to renew the piston seal?

The models 242, 244 and 246 cannot be easily opened, since special tools are required; with on-board means a non-destructive disassembly generally does not succeed. When nib unit and pin with turning knob are removed, even targeted pressing on metal rod or plastic part is no reliable method. It is recommended to have the piston seal renewed by an experienced repairer, e.g. at Horst Schrage (maxpens.de), Tom Westerich (penboard) or Lutz Fiebig.

### Is it normal that a Montblanc 146 with B nib permanently has ink standing on the upper nib surface?

A slight ink wetting of the upper nib surface is not unusual with broad nibs, provided nib and feed otherwise sit flawlessly and no dripping or smearing occurs. During writing this phenomenon generally does not disturb; the nib can if needed simply be dabbed dry with a soft cloth. A technical defect cannot be derived from this alone.

### How can a yellowed Montblanc star on the plastic cap of a Carrera be brightened again?

The yellowed star can at most be brightened somewhat by careful polishing, with minimal material being removed each time. On an old writing instrument, it is rather recommendable to accept the patina as a sign of age and to leave the cap untreated. A reliable, material-friendly procedure for complete de-yellowing is not named in the forum.

### Which pen trays or desk cases — preferably in black and leather — are currently available as high-quality storage for several writing instruments?

The leather tray shown in the forum is, according to information from a specialist retailer, no longer being produced. As an alternative, Graf von Faber-Castell offers a broad selection of appealing pen trays and cases that correspond in finish and look to the requirements mentioned. Anyone wishing for a fixed, safe place for several writing instruments will find there both open trays and closed cases in leather or imitation leather.

### How can a discoloured, yellowed hard-rubber/ebonite fountain pen be made black again without grinding or polishing it off?

Olive oil is occasionally recommended and gives shine but does not eliminate the actual yellowing or sulphuration of the hard rubber; the material does not thereby become black throughout again. A complete re-blackening only succeeds via a chemical process that specifically removes the surface oxidation. Concrete formulas are not openly shared in the forum and are usually only passed on among collectors, ideally in exchange with chemically versed persons. Successfully treated examples are e.g. the Penkala Safety or a No. 1 Safety, which after this method appear completely black again.

### How can loose cap rings on older fountain pens be permanently fastened again?

Simply gluing is not regarded as a proper solution. Since materials like celluloid shrink over the course of decades, the original rings often sit too loosely, so they actually have to be newly made or pressed back to fit. This work is demanding and generally reserved for a specialist workshop.

### How can a soiling at the tip of a platinum-plated nib of a Montblanc 146 LeGrand be removed, and is the star cap unscrewable?

Soiling on the nib tip should as far as possible be removed without abrasive material; a moistened piece of cloth generally suffices. Leather cleaners may not be used on platinum-plated nibs, since they wear off the platinum and lead in the medium term to a solid-gold look. Silver-cleaning cloths also remove material and should only be used very sparingly and selectively, e.g. on stubborn ink residues. Hints on the unscrewability of the tip cap were not substantively answered.

### How can the grooves of a platinum-plated StarWalker Doué be cleaned without damaging the coating?

For gentle cleaning of the grooves and the platinum-plated surface, a soft brush is suitable, e.g. a soft toothbrush or the cleaning brush of an electric shaver, lightly moistened. Cloths alone do not reach the recesses sufficiently. Important is to keep mechanical stress low in order to avoid scratches on the platinum plating.

### What to do about ink leakage at the turning knob of a Montblanc 342, and can Montblanc service still repair this model today?

The 342 was a historical standard fountain pen, produced in large numbers; repairs via Montblanc itself are often disproportionately expensive compared to the market value. More sensible is repair by specialised restorers, who are listed in the repair lists of collector forums. Before the investment, the economic value of the writing instrument should be weighed against the repair costs; pigmented inks like 'Midnight Blue' should anyway be avoided in old holders.

### Which classy case for a Montblanc 145 is recommendable that does not consist of fabric or leather and only accommodates one writing instrument?

In the thread, no satisfactory recommendation could be found that fulfils all criteria. Only the Andrée Putman case was suggested, which however is conceived for the 149 and would appear clearly too large for the 145. Other suitable alternatives without leather or fabric did not come to the participants' minds. The selection outside the common materials is thus strongly restricted.

### Where is there a trustworthy private repair service for Montblanc writing instruments, e.g. for 146 models, and can one unscrew the nib oneself?

Recommended is the workshop of Horst (maxpens.de); an overview of repair options can also be found in the area Articles > Repair. A repair is only worthwhile with more valuable or still economically sensible writing instruments; with old 144s from the 50s, e.g., at most a cork change. Removing the nib is risky: usually the transition between grip section and body is heated, the grip section unscrewed and the feed together with the nib pressed out from behind. Too much heat deforms the celluloid, too little heat leads to breakage at the thread, which is why it is urgently advised against own attempts. An alternative is multi-day soaking and careful pulling out, however not without risk.

### How can a stuck refill be removed from a 20-year-old Montblanc Solitaire 925 Faden ballpoint?

With stuck refills, it is recommended to open the ballpoint and to push from the front through the tip against the old refill with a new refill in order to carefully push it out backwards. This method generally works reliably and avoids damage to the mechanism.

### How can a damaged Montblanc Le Grand ballpoint with a hole in the star or a scratched 146 be repaired?

Repairs on Montblanc writing instruments are basically carried out only directly by the manufacturer; a spare-parts sale to end customers does not take place. The repair prices are, compared to other manufacturers, however moderate. Sensible is a call to Montblanc customer service in order to obtain a cost estimate in advance. The writing instrument can then either be sent in directly or given via a specialist retailer for repair, with the latter possibly entailing additional costs.

### Which tools are suitable for disassembling old fountain pens, especially for loosening stuck piston mechanisms or nibs?

For disassembly, pliers with jaws plastic-coated on both sides are recommended, as also used in the automotive area for spark plugs; such pliers cost from about 14 euros and are available under search terms like spark plug and pliers, alternatively via Tom Westerich from penboard.de. The advantage is the even pressure from all sides, which prevents splintering on the barrel. Stuck feeds with nib are better loosened by longer soaking, ultrasonic treatment (immerse only the grip section) as well as careful warming with a hair dryer; on hard rubber, only heat should be used. Stuck nibs can, after removal of the piston mechanism, be knocked out with a matching HSS drill (shaft first, light blows with a rubber hammer) and a hardwood block with drilled holes as a counter-support.

### How can light scratches on the surface of a Carbon Steel fountain pen be reduced or removed?

It is recommended to present the writing instrument to a jeweller and have the metal professionally polished. From commercially available polishes like Wenol it is advised against, since they are too coarse for the fine surface and can experience-shows significantly worsen the appearance after application.

### Are rust spots on the silver-coloured nib carrier of a Montblanc Bohème a known problem, and how should one proceed?

On the very first Bohème writing instruments, rust problems demonstrably existed, which were remedied in later production series, since Montblanc exchanged the entire inner workings against rust-free components. Anyone noticing rust spots should contact Montblanc customer service; in comparable cases repairs were carried out free of charge as a gesture of goodwill. Alternatively, the writing instrument could also be restored by experienced repairers, e.g. by polishing the end ring and loosening the front sleeve screwing, but first the official Montblanc service should be used. "Normal" rust is on a Bohème in no way to be expected.

## Vintage pens

### What features does the Montblanc Safety Pen No. 15 have, and how is it filled?

The Montblanc Safety Pen No. 15 is classically filled with a pipette from above; alternatively, filling can be done by carefully holding the nib of a piston pen into the opening of the safety pen and releasing ink from the piston pen into the safety pen. In the example described, the barrel shows several inscriptions: at the top in white the maiden name of a previous owner, below that the barely readable inscription 'Simplo Original Montblanc' with the mountain symbol in the middle. On the turning knob the designation '15 OB' is engraved. The cap bears the lettering 'Montblanc' with mountain symbol and the poorly readable dealer detail 'Füllhalter-Spezial-Geschäft Königsberg Pr. Junkerstr. 11'. The nib is a 14-carat gold nib of width M with the Montblanc circle imprint. The pen is tight and writes flawlessly after filling.

### Which feed variants existed on the Montblanc Meisterstück 144 since the 1980s?

Since the relaunch of the Meisterstücks in the Classique size, i.e. model 144, various feeds have been used. Initially there were two variants with solid feeds. From the 1990s onwards, feeds with lamellae were additionally used, which enable greater pressure equalisation. With lower air pressure, e.g. on aircraft, fountain pens normally tend to drip. The lamellae of the feed can absorb the ink to a certain extent and so effectively prevent the pen from leaking. Overall at least three feed variants on the 144 are documented; further variants are not excluded.

Related pages on fountainpen.de:
• Montblanc Meisterstück 144 (Classique predecessor): https://www.fountainpen.de/c-montblanc-meisterstueck-144-en.htm

### How did the Onoto fountain pen of Sir Thomas Gibson-Carmichael come back into use after 70 years' watery grave?

In April 1917 the ocean liner SS Medina, a former royal yacht converted into a passenger ship, left Sydney with 417 passengers and crew bound for London via Bombay, Port Said and Plymouth. On board was also a valuable private collection of the British diplomat Sir Thomas Gibson-Carmichael, former governor of Madras and Bengal, and his wife Lady Mary Gibson-Carmichael. The family left the ship in Port Said and travelled on with HMS Sheffield, with most of their around 80 pieces of luggage staying on board the Medina. On 28 April 1917 the unarmed Medina was, three miles off the southern English headland Start Point, torpedoed without warning by the German submarine UB 31. Through the explosion of the torpedo in the engine room, the fourth engineer and five engine men died; all other persons reached the harbours of Dartmouth and Brixham in lifeboats. In the 1970s and 1980s, in several salvage operations, extensive finds were recovered, including oriental paintings, perfume flacons, Japanese porcelain, Indian brass ware, Australian gemstones, ancient Egyptian pearl jewellery, Assyrian cuneiform tablets, a coin catalogue of Sotheby's auction house and still readable letters from Lord Kitchener and Earl Rosebery. Sir Carmichael's personal Onoto Plunger Filler was also recovered. At a later auction the newly founded firm The Onoto Pen Company Limited acquired the writing instrument for its company collection. The pen was given to the well-known restorer Laurence Oldfield for assessment, who established that the Onoto was in excellent condition and the 14-carat nib too had hardly suffered damage. Only seals, piston and piston rod had to be replaced because of corrosion with original parts from donor pens. After reassembly and polishing, the Onoto wrote flawlessly again and is today regularly used by the firm's directorate.

### What are the most important do's and don'ts for the care, storage and cleaning of vintage fountain pens?

Vintage writing instruments – whether made of hard rubber (ebonite), celluloid, cellulose acetate or related cellulose resins (e.g. Forticel, called Radite II by Sheaffer) – respond far more sensitively to improper handling than modern resin pens. Anyone who wants to enjoy a collection over the long term should therefore follow a few proven rules. The points below are sorted in descending order of importance: the first items prevent the most common and most severe damage; those further down add detail for fine-tuned care.

RECOMMENDATIONS (Do's)

1. Storage: dry, dark, not airtight. Steel map cabinets with shallow drawers, for example, work very well. Direct sunlight and very bright light must be avoided, as the UV component attacks hard rubber as well as celluloid and cellulose acetate. UV-absorbing glass is only of limited help: the infrared component (heat) still passes through the glass and can literally bake the pens.

2. Keep concrete climate values. Rule of thumb: temperature 18–22 °C (64–72 °F), relative humidity 40–60 % (ideal 45–50 %). Larger swings, heat above 22 °C or sustained humidity above 60 % significantly accelerate material aging, mould and bloom formation.

3. Correct storage position. Always store writing instruments nib-up or at least horizontal – never nib-down. Otherwise ink runs into the cap, the feed dries unevenly, and the next writing session starts with a clogged or skipping nib. Inside a pen case, prefer holders that enforce this position.

4. Store pens empty and cleaned – with one exception: pens with cork seals or piston gaskets should not be stored dry. For longer periods they are filled exclusively with distilled water so that cork and seals remain supple.

5. Use only fountain-pen-safe inks. Any ink containing pigments or particles – including nanoparticle inks such as Platinum Carbon Black – can clog the feed and nib. Nanoparticle inks are nominally safe but require significantly more frequent flushing. Not every ink described as 'fountain-pen-friendly' actually is: Winsor & Newton calligraphy inks contain particulate matter, as do all shimmer inks. Anyone who insists on these special inks should clean their pen at least twice as often as with a plain solution ink. New inks that are not yet established on the market should always be treated with caution; they belong in 'throwaway' pens. The same applies within a brand: just because Ink A is safe does not mean Ink B from the same maker is.

6. Ensure air circulation. Celluloid and cellulose acetate continuously release acids. In an airtight cabinet these gases accumulate and accelerate the decay of the very pieces that are meant to be protected. For large cabinets a small PC fan in a hole in the back panel is a good solution; alternatively, transparent vinyl pads on the corners of the lid keep it from sealing completely.

7. Actively control humidity. In humid environments without air conditioning or a good dehumidifier, small silica gel packets in the cabinet are recommended. Depending on conditions, they need to be replaced several times a year; saturated packets can be regenerated in the microwave on the defrost setting (7–10 minutes). Excess humidity accelerates oxidation of hard rubber, corrosion of metal parts and the appearance of bloom on cellulose resins; on casein materials the consequences are particularly drastic.

8. When in doubt, call in a professional. If a restoration exceeds your own abilities, a qualified specialist should take over. Stubbornness or lack of knowledge are common causes of irreparable damage. As a rule of thumb: most damage to old pens comes not from neglect but from botched repair attempts. Structural cracks and stuck mechanisms in particular are clearly a job for the workshop.

9. Address problems promptly. Nibs with poor ink flow, scratchy noises or generally 'cranky' writing behaviour belong in the hands of a nib technician, as do stiff pistons and fillers that take up significantly less ink than they used to.

10. Isolate visibly decomposing celluloid pieces. So-called celluloid rot (celluloid decomposition: pungent camphor-like odour, crystalline efflorescence, sticky surface, sudden discolouration) is contagious: the released acids and aldehydes accelerate the decay of neighbouring cellulose pieces. Affected pens must therefore be stored strictly separately and not returned to the main collection, even if the odour seems to subside.

11. Inspect stored pens regularly. Take pens out periodically and wipe them down with a soft 100% cotton cloth (no synthetic fibres – some are hard enough to scratch the surface). At the same time, look for signs of crystallisation or fluorescence in the celluloid; fluorescence is an early warning sign of incipient crystallisation.

12. Trap harmful substances. Chemical buffers (alkaline substances such as sodium bicarbonate or calcium carbonate) or molecular traps (zeolite) are advisable. Accelerated aging tests show that zeolites work significantly longer and more effectively than simple buffers, because they bind not only acids but also the upstream aldehydes. MicroChamber interleaving paper (Conservation Resources International), which contains a high-grade zeolite, has proven its worth; it is laid out over the pens inside the drawers.

13. For long-term storage of hard rubber pens and of celluloid pens in colours prone to discolouration, removing the sacs is the best approach. Colours prone to discolouration include Jade, Black & Pearl, Parker's Moderne Green & Pearl, Sheaffer's Ebonized Pearl, Wahl's Cathay as well as Waterman's Onyx and Persian – the list is not exhaustive.

14. Look after hard rubber. A very thin coating of mineral oil helps preserve appearance and material: when manufactured, hard rubber contained mineral oil, much of which has diffused out over the decades. For interior cleaning of cap and barrel, mineral oil with cotton swabs is likewise preferable to water.

15. Use silicone grease very sparingly and only where needed. It spreads quickly across the entire pen during handling, blocks gas exchange and thereby accelerates the decomposition of cellulose materials. Grease also attracts dust, which builds up into a layer whose removal can in turn damage the surface.

16. Know your material. Fragile finishes – such as gold plating on inexpensive steel nibs – should not be polished. Dried ink can be removed with a slightly moist cotton cloth; vigorous polishing quickly rubs the gold plating away. The same applies to cap and trim rings, levers and clips on third-tier pens (and on cheaper models of the top brands, such as the Parkette).

17. On restoration, replace latex sacs with silicone sacs. As they age, old latex ink sacs release sulphur-containing gases that can discolour and damage surrounding plastics. If a vintage pen is being resacced anyway, a silicone sac should be fitted: it is chemically inert, long-lasting, and avoids the sulphur problem.

18. Use the right adhesives for reassembly. For ink sacs and non-threaded joints, shellac (orange shellac is standard – it cures hard yet remains water-soluble when needed) is used; for threaded joints, thread sealant. Both were standard throughout classic fountain pen manufacturing, are reliable, and can be loosened again with heat, so that future repairs remain possible without damage.

WHAT TO AVOID (Don'ts)

1. Never store pens filled with ink or tap water. Both contain dissolved substances that can precipitate out, cloud or stain transparent parts and block piston mechanisms. Pen flush also must never be left in a pen permanently.

2. Never soak hard rubber in water, especially not in warm or hot water. Light-aged hard rubber reacts with water in seconds and turns brown. Hard rubber may also swell when exposed to water for an extended time. A John Holland saddle filler, for instance, placed cap-down in a glass to remove an ink stain, was indeed freed of the stain – but at what cost.

3. No heat guns, no hot-air blowers, no hairdryers on full power for celluloid. Celluloid is nitrocellulose and therefore highly flammable; above about 70 °C (158 °F) the material starts to suffer noticeable damage, and hot-air tools easily exceed this. Warming for the loosening of stuck joints is permissible only under careful control (e.g. a warm water bath or a heating mat with thermostat).

4. No Teflon tape. Unlike proper sealants, Teflon is a lubricant; threaded assemblies will loosen and can come apart unexpectedly. Wrapping on more tape in compensation pushes the outer wall (usually the barrel) outwards – with a risk of cracking. Drastic example: a Sheaffer Honor Masterpiece (around 1941, solid gold, today worth more than 5,000 USD) in which a previous restorer had fixed the shrunken section in the barrel with Teflon tape – only because the barrel is made of 14-carat gold (and not of celluloid or a less forgiving metal) did the pen survive the operation.

5. No alcohol and no organic solvents (e.g. nail polish remover, acetone, thinner) on celluloid or other cellulose resins – they attack the material. Common household cleaners are equally unsuitable.

6. No petroleum products on hard rubber or on rubber parts such as sacs, gaskets and seals. They destroy natural rubber components. The only exception is the thin mineral oil treatment of hard rubber mentioned in the recommendations.

7. No general-purpose lubricants such as WD-40 or 3-in-One Oil. WD-40 contains petroleum distillates and destroys rubber parts. 3-in-One Oil is a mixture – partly plant-based – which also tends to congeal and gum up mechanisms.

8. No super glue, Gorilla Glue or other extremely strong adhesives. They cannot be undone; the only way to open a pen sealed this way is to break it. For safe and reversible joints: shellac for sacs and non-threaded joints, thread sealant for threaded joints (see point 18 of the recommendations).

9. No wax. Waxes provide no benefit to hard rubber and damage celluloid and cellulose acetate by trapping the released acids against the material. Over time all waxes harden – carnauba is hard to begin with – and turn yellowish to brown. Even high-quality microcrystalline waxes have these drawbacks; synthetic ones are worse still. Renaissance Wax, once regarded as 'museum-grade', is now known to be no better in the long run than other waxes.

10. No sealed plastic bags. Plastic bags in general should only be used for very short periods. Most plastic films outgas chemicals that attack the surface finish; in addition, they trap the acids released by celluloid and cellulose acetate, which then attack the very piece they came from.

11. Use only 100% pure silicone grease. Some silicone greases contain petroleum additives. Pure silicone grease is available from fountain pen specialist dealers, diving shops or restaurant-supply trade outlets.

12. No silicone spray from a can. The silicone itself may be fine – but the propellant is usually heptane, a petroleum product that partly dissolves in the silicone.

13. With leaking vintage eyedroppers, do not put silicone paste or O-rings into the section joint. The original mating surfaces were machined to extremely close tolerances and seal perfectly as long as they remain undamaged. Foreign material in the thread usually causes the damage in the first place. A leaking eyedropper joint can typically be solved simply by tightening it a little more firmly.

14. Do not pack loose sections with paper or thin pasteboard. The stress is asymmetrical; the barrel – especially if it is hard rubber – can crack.

15. No cases or display cabinets with velvet linings. The material can leave small scratches and dull spots on sensitive lacquers, gold plating and hard rubber surfaces; velvet also binds dust and moisture. Acid-free fleece or microfibre inserts are a better choice.

16. No self-adhesive labels (label maker, price stickers, sticky tape) for marking. Pressure-sensitive adhesives harden and can often only be removed with damage to the surface; some adhesive formulations attack the material directly, even if the sticker itself remains easy to remove.

17. Do not overuse ultrasonic cleaners. They heat the water very quickly to temperatures that can damage vintage materials. An ultrasonic cleaner with a built-in heater should not be used for fountain pens at all.

18. Do not wrap pens in ordinary paper or tissue. Such papers usually contain sulphuric acid residues and can damage the piece. If wrapping is necessary, use only conservation-grade paper (see point 12 of the recommendations).